Smashed houses, charred rubble and destroyed military equipment litter the streets of the Ukrainian city of Chernihiv: evidence of the prolonged and relentless fighting that engulfed this city, 70 miles northeast of Kyiv, when Russian forces attacked it, early in the conflict. Now they’ve gone, residents are emerging, combing through the ruins. One resident, who had fought for the Soviet army in Afghanistan, told how troops ransacking his house had discovered his old uniform, with its medals and had taunted him. The Russians withdrew at the start of April as part of a redeployment of forces. (April 18)